How to build a wooden staircase: instructions for making one DIY wooden staircase. What is needed and how to build it solid and stable.
Are you a DIY lover you would like to know how to build a wooden staircase?
No fear: we have summarized all the main steps you should take in order to achieve such a feat, inviting you to deepen what is not clear to you directly with an expert craftsman who will be able to lead you with a more confident hand in the details: you don't want to build a staircase that collapses under the first step you will take? Especially when it comes tobuild a wooden staircase to the mezzanine.
DIY wooden staircase
Having clarified this, to design one DIY wooden staircase you must first establish the exact distance between the two floors you need to join: this distance will be the height of the internal wooden staircase. Once this is done, it also calculates the slope, as the ratio between the riser (vertical distance between two steps) and tread (transverse width of each step), taking into account that a comfortable staircase should have a sum of riser and tread of about 480 mm. So, if you want to connect two floors that are about 3 meters apart, with an optimal ratio you will need 18 steps and a length of about 5 and a half meters.
Once you have made these basic calculations, know that the fundamental elements of a DIY wooden staircase are the steps and the uprights that support them, inclined for the ramps and vertical and horizontal for the landings. So choose the wood (the best is oak, but you can find great alternatives at a great market) and buy the rampant slightly longer than what you need, in order to compensate for bias cuts. Calculate the slope angle, and cut the heads of all the elements joined on the bias with this value. Considering that the rampants (and especially the external one, fixed only at the ends) will have to bear a significant weight without having to bend, use a beam with a considerable section.
Having introduced this, mount the frame of the landing (that is, the base to which you will then have to connect the ramps at the bottom), always having in mind to use a good section that can withstand the thrust of the oblique uprights. At the top, the oblique uprights will have to rest against the edge of the slab, to which you will fix them with metal brackets and expansion plugs. The landing frame will instead be held square by a metal tie rod.
Then place the rampant against the front leg of the landing and support it with a temporary batten. Block a piece of beam with a section equal to the rampant and draw the cutting line in the lower edge according to the slope of the ramp. Once the piece is cut, screw it to the landing leg. Fit the landing on the frame and then move on to take care of the steps, which will need to be cut to size and sanded.
Then prepare a pair of strips for each step, opening the through and countersunk holes on two adjacent faces, which will be useful for blocking them under the heads of the steps and rampants. Remember that the width of the spacers must necessarily be such as to allow you to achieve the exact rise that you had foreseen in the initial project for the steps.
Set the DIY ladder
So proceed slowly, step by step, carefully checking the horizontality along the length and the crosspiece before inserting the fixing in the rampant. In this way you will avoid going too far in the project, in the doubt of having made mistakes: detecting mistakes in this preliminary part, before installing other steps, will allow you to make the necessary corrections without necessarily having to disassemble and damage the other components of your wooden staircase.
Finally, a small bonus: we advise you to mount all the elements of your staircase, such as the steps and other components, only after you have treated them with an impregnating agent, which will also give a hand in the finish. It is certainly better to carry out this work on the individual pieces, rather than carrying out it with the ladder mounted: not only is it easier and less tiring, but you will be able to avoid unnecessary dirt and you will also get a more delicious final result, since there will be no contrasts between the zones treated with the impregnating agent and the untreated areas.