Green pruning of the apricot tree: instructions on how to practicegreen pruningon aapricot. From the right time to the branches to be cut.
When is the green pruning of the apricot done?
It is in the month of May that thegreen pruning and onapricotit must be performed both on plants in breeding and on those in production.
On this page we will analyze how to do pruning the apricot plant in the form of farming with three branches.
There green pruningin the first year of cultivation ofapricot
On the spears planted in winter, check if the growth of the three shoots chosen for the formation of the three branches (also called jar) continues regularly. If everything goes smoothly, by the end of May the shoots should have reached a length of about 50 cm while the topped ones should be firm. If among the topped shoots there is someone who is starting to vegetate, you will need to do a second topping.
At this stage, pay particular attention to apricot diseases, especially anarsia, an insect whose larva gnaws at the tips of the shoots and subsequently the fruits. Look closely at the sprouts, if an attack by anarsia occurs, immediately pinch the previously chosen sprout and give priority to a new shoot (one of those sprouted shoots that continue to vegetate at the end of May) that arose near the damage.
Theregreen pruningin the second and third year of cultivation
From the second year you can anticipate green pruning at the end of April or in the first days of May: in this phase, tear off the shoots that grow on the back of the branches or in correspondence with large cuts. Also in the month of May you can eliminate any sucks that grow on the back, escaped fromgreen pruningof April. Pay particular attention to the suckers found in the terminal parts which, if left, would lead to an unnecessary enlargement of the branch in that area.
Theregreen pruningonapricotin production
If your apricot cultivation is more than a few years old, you will be dealing with plants already in production. In this case you can remove the shoots with your hands: even if removing the shoots manually you will cause the plant to have big wounds, do not worry, these will heal quickly and will be useful because they will limit the re-emergence of other suckers.
If you find it useful, you can let some of the suckers grow in the basal part of the branches. These could be used to cover the empty spaces: in July you can change their orientation by twisting them and positioning them horizontally.